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We had such a great time during our first hike with José, that we immediately scheduled another: this time through the Parque Nacional Carrasco. Carrasco is one of the most ecologically diverse areas in Bolivia, with a total size of about 2400 square miles. 5000 plant species have been recorded here, including over 200 types of orchids, and the park is home to rare animals like the Andean Spectacled Bear, the taruca (North Andean Deer), the jaguar, and the Andean Cat.

For this hike, our group was much larger, with a total of ten people, almost all of them French. But though we never enjoyed a sense of seclusion, the pack’s size didn’t detract much from the experience. Seven hours spent wandering through the hills of pristine Bolivian nature, with some of the most gorgeous views we’ve had in the country… I think even if a hundred people were on the hike, I still would have loved it.

This wasn’t a difficult walk. The paths were clearly marked and even the long ascents were easily manageable. José paused frequently to point out strange plants and identify bird calls, and led us through the woods up to the top of a couple big hills. The sight of the mountains covered in forest, with a dense fog snaking through the valleys, was unbelievable. José had promised views of extraordinary beauty and he delivered.

Midway through the hike, we came upon a coca farmer’s plantation, hidden high up in the hills. In Bolivia, it’s legal to plant a small amount of coca, and we had a chance to see the old guy’s crops. For years, he’s lived alone in his hut, miles away from the nearest village. An amazing view but, man, what a life! He showed us how to harvest the coca leaves, a process always done by hand, and I had the chance to try it out myself.

Though it was a long day, we had a surprising amount of energy at the end of the hike. After reaching a small village which had just received electricity two weeks prior, we hopped into a couple taxis and made our way back to Villa Tunari. Parque Carrasco is perhaps most known for its caves which are home to the strange Oilbird: night-feeding birds which navigate like bats. We didn’t go to the caves, since the birds had mostly left for the season, but it’s another thing to look into, should you find yourself in the area.

If you want to organize a hike like this in Villa Tunari, you can reach José on his cell phone (71477013).

- Jungle Trekking

Get Ready For The Jungle

On our second full day in Villa Tunari, we struck out into the rainforests north of the village, under the supervision of José, a great guide with twenty years of experience in the region. A six-hour hike along rivers which left our shoes soaked, legs pockmarked by the itchy bites of vicious flies and minds scarred by our first encounter with quicksand. It was a blast.

José picked us up at 7am, and we took a taxi to the hike’s starting point, about seven kilometers from the village. His eleven-year old black lab accompanied with us. Cúchufri, whose name approximately means “stink dog”, was an invaluable companion. José would send him ahead of us to scout for snakes, many of which in the region are poisonous.

Right away, we got into the river. Submerging our shoes into the cold water was initially uncomfortable, but was a sensation we quickly became accustomed to. But the knee-high water washed off the insect repellent we had so dutifully applied earlier in the morning. And every time we would emerge from the river, jungle flies attacked. Much smaller than mosquitoes, they were nearly invisible and impossible to defend against. By the end of the hike, our legs had been devastated. And these bites are far worse than those of mosquitoes. They persisted for three weeks, becoming ever itchier, and the urge to scratch was irresistible.

Besides the flies, we were having an incredible time. It was just us and José, and there’s nothing quite like the feeling of being all alone in the jungle. We saw monkeys swinging overhead and the tracks of crocodiles, tapirs and armadillos. Once in awhile, we would pause to listen to the jungle’s soundtrack: the warbling of strange birds, the rushing of the river and the chirping of god-knows-what insects.

After a lunch break and refreshing underwear-only dip in a deep section of the river, we walked up to the shore. Jürgen wasn’t following José’s steps exactly, and wandered into a patch of quicksand. Almost immediately, he sunk to his waist. Scary! But not scary enough to prevent me from grabbing his camera and start taking pictures. José was adamant that Jürgen extract himself from the trap, without help. Apparently, the pulling of other people only makes the sand more difficult to escape. So if you ever find yourself in quicksand, here’s how to get out:

(1) Remain Calm.
(2) Reach out to firm ground with your hands (or have someone get you a long stick for support).
(3) Very, very slowly lift one leg out, and place it lightly on top of the sand, in a kneeling position.
(4) Very, very slowly lift the other leg out.

At least, that’s how Jürgen did it, during a process that lasted about fifteen minutes. He had only sunk down to his waist. If you find yourself up to your chin, I would guess the above instructions are probably useless. Good luck.

Towards the end of the walk, we came upon a road that the government had just begun to construct. This is a controversial project among the residents of the region. Although a modern road would improve the lives of peasants who must otherwise walk miles into town, it cuts through a area of virgin forest which is supposed to be protected, and it might destroy the lives of remote indigenous communities. But it made the last bit of our walk a lot easier, so I found it difficult to muster any outrage.

If you’re looking for a great tour of some incredible nature, look up José. His office is found at the eastern extreme of Villa Tunari, right before the bridge that takes you over to Parque Machía. And tell him that Mike & Jürgen sent you!

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