A visit to Madrid

The charming village of Tarata makes a perfect day trip from Cochabamba. It’s a quick 45-minute trip in a minibus, which costs just five Bolivianos, or about $0.70.

Only about 8000 people live in Tarata, but this town boasts a disproportionate amount of importance in Bolivia’s history. Two of the country’s presidents hail from here, including perhaps the most infamous in Bolivian history: Mariano Melgarejo.

Melgarejo was a ruthless, self-imposed president, who ruled between 1864 and 1871. A career military man, he came to power in a coup d’état during which he personally murdered the former president. He brutally suppressed Bolivia’s indigenous population, working on the behalf of the elite, and his own ego. Without any regard to the interests of his country, he carelessly signed away huge swaths of Bolivian land to Chile and Brazil. In exchange for their new Amazonian property, Brazil presented him with a majestic white steed. Unsurprisingly, he was eventually ousted from power and assassinated.

During our drive to Tarata, we were lucky enough to meet a guy who, having no plans for the day, offered to act as our personal tour guide. We started in the town’s main square, whose centerpiece is a statue of Esteban Arce: a revolutionary hero born in Tarata. We checked out the town’s cathedral, whose unassuming facade conceals a gorgeous wooden roof and the mortal remains of both Melgarejo and Arce.

We walked around Tarata’s dusty streets and found our way to a Franciscan convent, which is still in use. As we arrived, a group was busy with the colorful benediction of a semi-truck, throwing flower petals and confetti around and decorating it with religious symbols. Given the terrifying driving conditions of Bolivia’s roads, every little bit helps, I suppose.

Our tour continued inside the neighboring Santuario de San Severino, where people come to pray to the 6th Century Roman martyr. That seems a really random choice for the adulation of a Bolivian village. Another odd feature of the Sanctuary was the venerated image of a Bolivian General done up like a saint, complete with a place for kneeling. Catholic faith has always confused me, but the Bolivian variety is exceptionally strange. Almost anything of significance can become holy, from the sun and moon, to successful military men and even talented sculptors.

For lunch, we had a massive plate of chorizos at a popular chichería, where we also drank a jug of garapiña, which is chicha combined with cinnamon ice cream. We left with buzzing heads and were easy prey for the crafty women at Tarata’s market hall, who convinced us to buy a few gifts. The nearby town of Huayculi is renowned for its clay pottery, most of which is sold in Tarata, and we couldn’t resist. A jar called a “Water Trap” cost us ten Bolivianos. Decorated with a devil, drinking from it involves a trick. The uninitiated will only succeed in drenching themselves if they try to take a sip.

If you find yourself with an extra day in Cochabamba, Tarata is definitely worth a look. A beautiful town with a lot of history and sights, it’s easy to reach and highly rewarding.

Location of Tarata
Where to Get the Bus

-Brewery Hostel La Paz

Bolivia Travel Guides

Eating in Bolivia has been a real test of intestinal fortitude. We’ve had a lot of incredible dishes, but our stomachs are unused to the style of food. Here are three other dishes which we’ve battled through during our time here:

A dish similar to Pique a lo Macho, but different in a very important way. A hefty portion of steak bits, along with french fries, locoto pepper, egg and onion are cooked and served in a thick broth of beer. As with many Bolivian dishes, the serving size is ridiculous. Two hungry lumberjacks would be satisfied sharing a single portion. We ordered this at a great restaurant called Tunari in Cochabamba, where we were the only foreigners. We were also the only people not playing a Yahtzee-like dice game called Cacho. We were not the only ones eating Lomo Borracho.

Jürgen is a carnivore. Carnivoríssimo. Occasionally, he’ll brag to friends that every meal he’s ever eaten has included meat. So, I about fell out of my chair when he proclaimed Sopa de Mani as his favorite meal in Cochabamba. Peanut Soup! He ordered it whenever it was on the menu. Though it doesn’t sound particularly enticing, Sopa de Mani is a Cochabambino classic, both filling and delicious. The best bowl we had was in the dining hall at the marketplace just south of the Cathedral.

Kind of sampler plate for blood-thirsty Bolivians, Picante Mixto includes five different kinds of meat along with potatoes and chuños. Before I get into the meats, let’s have a word about the black nugget called the chuño. In the Andes, people conserve potatoes by laying them out on the ground overnight and allowing them to frost over. The next day, the potatoes are exposed to the sun and stomped upon, squeezing out all the juice. This is repeated for five days, and the chuño is born. Apparently, once everything of nutritional content has been removed, the black potatoes can be stored indefinitely. They taste interesting. I won’t get more complimentary than that.

Back to the Picante Mixto. I have a feeling the meat selection varies depending on where you order it, but here was the lineup at La Paz’s popular Rincón Ilabaeño: (1) Charquekan; similar to beef jerky. (2) Sajta de Pollo; a broiled chicken leg. (3) Saice; a spicy portion of diced beef and veggies. (4) Lengua; a full-sized cow tongue. (5) Ranga Ranga; chopped-up cow stomach. I’m proud to say, or ashamed to admit, that I was a clean plater. My favorite might have been the tongue.

Location of Restaurante Tunari
Location of Mercado Dining Hall in Cochabamba
Location of Rincón Ilabaeño

- Lost of Restaurants in Buenos Aires