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Learning to Love Chicha

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A slightly-alcoholic drink made from fermented corn, chicha is a sickly-yellow beverage hugely popular in Bolivia, especially in and around Cochabamba. It’s always homemade, prepared in huge earthenware vats, where the corn mixture is left to ferment for several days.

Chicha Cup

Places which sell chicha can be identified by a flag hung outside the door. A white flag means normal chicha, while a red flag indicates that it was made from purple maize. Chicherías are like beer halls; raucous places which can be found in every town throughout the highlands. Despite their ubiquity, they can be difficult to track down. The one we visited in Sucre had no sign or identifying marker outside the door. You have to be in-the-know.

Chicha can wreak havoc on the stomachs of unprepared foreigners. The stuff isn’t made or served in the most sanitary of conditions and, at least for me, a day of drinking chicha means the next will be spent on the toilet. But it’s a social drink, and you should never refuse when the bowl is passed your way. After splashing a bit on the ground to honor Pachamama, you drink the entire contents of the bowl, not just a sip. It’s sweet and yeasty, a bit like unfinished beer.

We had more than our fair share of the stuff, particularly at the party in Independencia. And while we were in Tarata we had a chance to sample garapiña, which is chicha infused with cinnamon ice cream. With a more agreeable reddish color and sweeter flavor, garapiña is much easier to swallow down.

It’s not by any means our favorite drink, but sampling Chicha is a quintessential Bolivian experience which can’t be skipped.

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August 7, 2011 at 4:01 pm Comments (5)

Three Bolivian Specialties

Bolivia Cook Book

Living in Bolivia was an experience in healthy eating. I don’t think I’ve ever consumed as many fresh fruits and vegetables as during our time there. And it’s all so affordable. You can buy a papaya the size of a toddler for less than a dollar. Of course, not every Bolivian specialty is healthy. Here are some of the more hearty dishes we enjoyed

El Plato Paceño

The “Plate of La Paz” is probably the most famous dish in the country’s biggest city. A number of friends had swooned over it, and so we immediately sought it out after arriving here. At the table, napkin tucked into my collar, I was rubbing my hands together in anticipation, wondering what this miracle dish would be. And then it was set in front of me. Underwhelming doesn’t begin to describe it. A piece of meat, a big potato, an ear of corn and beans? Just thrown together on a plate?! This was the famous plato paceño?!

But then I started eating. It might be a simple and uncreative dish, but everything was perfectly cooked and delicious. And now, I’ve become one of those people who breathlessly recommend the plato paceño.

Chicharrón
Chicarrón

This pork dish is a specialty of Cochabamba, but also popular in La Paz. I ordered it at a busy terrace restaurant in Mallasa, after we had visited the Valle de la Luna. Chicharrón is prepared by stewing chunks of pork in a massive cauldron along with garlic, oregano, lemon and chicha (a slightly-alcoholic fermented corn drink). Mine was served with sick-looking blackened potatoes called chuños. The meat was incredibly tender and fell off the bone at the slightest touch.

We ordered it a couple more times when we got to Cochabamba. I don’t know why it amuses me so much, but a restaurant that serves chicharrón is called a chicharronería. Sounds like a nasty Bolivian jungle disease.

Fricassé
Fricasse Boliviana

When Jürgen ordered this Bolivian specialty, he hadn’t been expecting a massive bowl of orange-colored soup with giant pig bones sticking out and heart-sized potatoes floating around the brine. He was initially so disgusted that he almost sent it back. But, just like my experience with the Plato Paceño, all grumbling disappeared the instant he started eating.

It was a bit hard to get the meat off the bone without making a nasty, splashy mess, but he mostly managed. I knew he was pleased with his fricasé when he looked up at me with a huge grin, mouth completely smeared with orange slop. Aww… that’s my guy!

Fricasé Recipe

- Learn how to cook Chicharrón here

Travel Agency Bolivia
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July 19, 2011 at 12:13 am Comments (4)

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