Hostel Isla Del Sol

If you’re going to call yourself “Island of the Sun”, you had better be pretty awesome. Island of the Tick and Sock Isle, you guys can go ahead and suck: we’re not expecting much from you. But an island named after the entity around which our world rotates, which provides warmth and life to everything on the planet? You had better be freaking amazing. And with some crazy Inca ruins, a central role in ancient mythology, and a gorgeous setting in the world’s highest navigable lake, the Isla del Sol definitely delivers.

At 10am, the ferry from Copacabana dropped us off at the northern port of Cha’llapampa, and we set off on a four-hour hike across the length of the island. Four hours of the most beautiful views and fascinating glimpses into an ancient, conquered culture. On the island’s northern tip, we found an ancient Incan Ceremonial Table, and a labyrinthine temple called Chincana. The temple was in remarkably good shape, with skinny passages twisting through tiny doors into other rooms, or frequently into dead ends. Fun to explore, and it was hard to imagine what the temple might have been used for, besides wicked games of Incan Hide & Seek.

Heading south, we climbed to the island’s highest point. Every once in awhile, we would encounter a kid selling fossils or trinkets, or a pedestrian toll booth. Residents of the island’s various communities are intent on cashing in on the massive number of tourists who trample through their lands. Near the top of the biggest hill, we stopped for lunch; I don’t think I’ve ever enjoyed cold spaghetti with a better view. There was a perfect breeze, and the deep blue water of Lake Titicaca sparkled, reflecting the sun.

Although the hike had been long and hilly, we arrived at the southern port of Yumani with plenty of energy, and time to spare before the ferry back to Copacabana. We had some time to relax in one of the many restaurants which dot the hill near the port. It’s a magical place, and was one of the absolute highlights of our months in Bolivia.

Isla del Sol on our Bolivia Map
-Lake Titikaka Travel Guide

Hotels and Hostels in Copacabana

The hill at the northern end of Copacabana is called the Calvario, or Station of the Cross. The trail, leading past fourteen crosses, takes about thirty minutes to ascend, and at the top, you’re rewarded with a great view of the city behind you and Lake Titicaca, stretching out endlessly in front.

We were in Copacabana just before the celebrations of August 6th, and the Calvario was being used by thousands of pilgrims as Ritual Central. Tents had been erected all along the path, and a number of curanderos (Andean medicine men) were performing rituals for believers. With groups of people holding hands and laughing, thick clouds of incense wafting into the air, and the lake reflecting the waning sun in the background, the scene was one of spectacular beauty.

Taking a short break from the ascent, we watched the rituals for awhile. These are the same people who had just been at the city’s Cathedral to pray to the Virgin. Yet here they were, being blessed with incense, pouring beer on the ground, shooting off firecrackers, and touching live armadillos for luck. Why choose just one religion? The gatherings, consisting of three to six people, looked like more fun than the church services I grew up with. In fact, if the Presbyterian belief had included more fireworks and armadillo-fondling, I might still be a faithful member!

At the top of the hill, people were waiting in a long line to decorate the Virgin with pins and ribbons. Around the path, worshipers huddled around little gardens of candles, using the melted wax to sculpt shapes of cars and houses onto whatever empty piece of cement they could find. Stands at the top of the hill sold toy cars, model houses and fake money: all trinkets which provide luck to the owner.

The stands also sold beer. We bought a couple, and sat down to watch the sunset behind the lake. It would be beautiful any time of year, but with the celebrations going on all around us, the scene had a special significance. We didn’t love our time in Copacabana, but the Calvario Hill was certainly a highlight.

Location of the Cerro Calvario
-Bolivia Travel Insurance