Everything you should know about nuns

One of the most impressive buildings in Cochabamba is the Convent of Santa Teresa, on the corner of Ecuador and Aguirre. This still-active convent of Carmelite nuns was established in 1726, and is now open to the public for tours. The nuns live separated from the rest of humanity, hidden away from prying eyes in sections of the temple which are strictly off-limits..

The tour was reminiscent of our visit to the Santa Teresa convent in Potosí. It’s the same religious order, following the same insanely strict regulation of no visual contact with the outside world, even family members. Back in the day, young girls were sent to the convent in accordance with the wishes of their fathers. It was customary for the first daughter to marry, and the second daughter to ensure the family’s ticket to heaven by pledging her life to the church. Hardcore.

The opportunity to sacrifice a young girl’s future was considered a privilege, and the family had to pay a sizable dowry. For this reason, the convent was awash in wealth. The most spectacular piece was a massive gold-plated altar in the upper floor. Life inside the order was completely segregated, based on race and money. The richest girls of European descent wore black hoods and spent their days praying and sewing. The nuns of indigenous heritage were little more than slaves, dedicated to the comfort of the richer sisters.

The tour took us onto the convent’s roof, noteworthy for its unique shape. When the church was built, the architects intended it to have a poly-lobular shape, like a flower. The technology necessary for such innovation didn’t yet exist and the project was abandoned, but only after the walls had been constructed. From the strangely shaped roof, the view over Cochabamba was magnificent.

We didn’t visit a lot of monuments during our time in Cochabamba, but our tour of the Templo de Santa Teresa was an excellent way to spend a quiet hour. Check it out if you have the chance.

Location of the Templo de Santa Teresa

- Top 5 Churches in Valencia, Spain

Cochabamba, with its wide streets and western-style restaurants, feels like a city awash in money. Although that’s not the case at all, at least one spot in town does exude wealth and genteel living: the palace of Simon I. Patiño, alternately known as the Tin Baron, or The Andean Rockefeller.

Simon I. Patiño was a man of simple means from Oruro, who decided to make his fortune in mining. The hill he purchased outside Potosí offered up a bit of mineral wealth, but barely enough to keep his family fed, much less providing the dreamed-of riches. But Patiño refused to give up on the paltry mine, even moving his family onto the property so that they could help work it. Eventually his persistence was rewarded. Patiño, in a very literal way, hit pay dirt, by uncovering a huge vein of tin.

The timing couldn’t have been better. World War One was just getting underway and tin was in heavy demand. Patiño used his new money to buy up other mines, and was soon in control of more tin than anyone else in the world. Within a very short period, he found himself among the world’s five richest men. After having lived so meagerly for so long, what does a person do with sudden wealth? Patiño chose to build a gaudy palace in the middle of the most pleasant, temperate city in his country: Cochabamba.

We joined an afternoon tour of Patiño’s luxurious home on a Wednesday afternoon. With a half hour to spare before the tour began, we had plenty of time to explore the gardens, beautifully arranged around the grounds, with Italian-style marble statues, ponds filled with goldfish and lily pads, and a wide variety of trees and vegetation. The gardens were lavish and ostentatious, but managed to remain tasteful — a tricky balancing act which his palace has trouble with.

Like the Recoleta Palace outside of Sucre, Patiño’s Palacio de Portales marries together a huge swath of styles, from French to Mozarabic to Italian. It’s called “Portales”, because of the massive ornamental doors which lead into the main receiving room. The mash-up of styles might have been impressive for a city unused to such extravagance, but nowadays it seems a bit ridiculous.

But it was still a fun tour. Patiño was an interesting character, who used his wealth to support visionary projects in Cochabamba, most of which never saw the light of day, and finance Boliva’s ill-fated Chaco War against Paraguay. We weren’t allowed to take photos during the tour, so unfortunately can’t offer you a glimpse inside. But if you have some extra time in Cochabamba, the Palacio de Portales is worth a look.

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